The Wisconsin Whey: Cheesemaking In The Driftless
Presented in partnership with the Wisconsin Science Festival.
The Driftless Region of Wisconsin is home to some of the nation’s finest cheese artisans, whose creations have earned hundreds of state, national, and international awards. Three of these talented cheesemakers were even featured on Top Chef: Wisconsin during its twenty-first season, which aired in spring 2024. According to the artisans, the secret to their cheese’s exceptional flavor lies in the milk sourced from this unique region.
Guided by Joe Burns, owner of Brunkow Cheese in Darlington, twelve cheesemakers were selected to be featured in a book celebrating Driftless cheesemaking. Award-winning Chicago-based food photographer Paul Strabbing captures their craft visually, while Judy Newman Coburn, a former business reporter for the Wisconsin State Journal, shares their stories.
The book introduces master cheesemakers like Sid Cook of Carr Valley Cheese, who has crafted over fifty varieties and received more top awards than any other cheesemaker in North America. It also highlights Andy Hatch of Uplands Cheese, whose Pleasant Ridge Reserve, one of only two cheeses his company produces, has earned more accolades than any other single cheese in the U.S.
Traveling through western Wisconsin, from Shullsburg to Westby, the authors met cheesemakers representing diverse legacies and paths. Some are the fourth generation in their family business, while others entered the field just a decade ago. Among them are women breaking into a traditionally male-dominated industry, cheesemakers specializing in sheep, goat, or even buffalo milk, and artisans with backgrounds as varied as law, political campaigns, and wine marketing.
What ties this eclectic group together is their shared commitment to craftsmanship and quality. They work long hours perfecting their cheeses and fostering an extraordinary sense of collaboration. Despite being competitors, these artisans openly support and celebrate each other’s successes, embodying a unique camaraderie rare in any industry.
This book not only tells their stories but also celebrates their dedication to their craft and their contributions to Wisconsin’s rich cheesemaking tradition.
Conversation will be facilitated by Kristin Mitchell, with special appearances from featured cheesemakers.
Kristin Mitchell
Kristin is a community builder by nature and sees great opportunity in building community, not just in her adopted hometown of Mineral Point (which she loves), but in Wisconsin as well. Kristin believes in collaboration and connection and strives to do both to the best of her ability. She has served on many committees, boards, and fundraising projects in Mineral Point.
Kristin currently serves as board chair of the Mineral Point Community Foundation and the Mineral Point Excellence in Education Foundation. She is on the board of directors for the Mineral Point Chamber of Commerce, the Ladies Leadership of Southwest Wisconsin, and more.
Nicole Bujewski
Nicole Bujewski has a profound love for the sweeter side of the kitchen. She is a pastry chef who trained and then taught at the prestigious French Pastry School in Chicago and owned and operated leFlour, a neighborhood bakery in Chicago. Nicole founded The Book Kitchen, inside the Republic of Letters bookstore in Mineral Point, in 2024. At The Book Kitchen, Nicole shares her knowledge and love for the culinary arts with students and enthusiasts, creating a bridge among her passions—food, teaching, and literature.
Keith Burrows
Keith Burrows is a scientist and writer who has lived in the Driftless Area since 2007. His writing has appeared in Driftless Appetite (which he co-founded), the Voice of the River Valley, Contours, Imagine 2074, and Arts Midwest.
In 2023, Keith opened the Republic of Letters bookstore in Mineral Point with Leslie Damaso. The mission of Republic of Letters is to be a home for creativity and celebration, to foster community engagement and shared learning, and to connect readers to books that will change their lives.